Before my kids graduate from high school, I should probably get a start on preserving some of the adorable, one-of-a-kind art projects they’ve brought home over the years.

Things are getting a little (very) dusty plus starting to fade and become brittle. I decided to experiment with a Mod Podge protective coating thinking that it might preserve my favorite pieces and maybe even restore them a bit. I wasn’t sure what to expect and I had a couple questions:

• How would Mod Podge react with the ubiquitous water based grade school paint, ie: would it cause the paint to bleed or run?
• What about the other staple of childhood – construction paper – might it disintegrate or tear from the moisture of the Mod Podge or even the stress of my paintbrush as I applied it?
• Would the colors be significantly changed or deepened?

Happily, everything went really well and I had no issues at all (when does this ever happen??!) In fact, the Mod Podge strengthened the more-fragile-than-wet-tissue-paper wattle under the chin of one of the animals, hurray!

Preserve Paper Art

You will need:

• Mod Podge Matte or Gloss, depending on your preference (I chose Matte)
• An applicator – I used an inexpensive, small paint brush
• Newspaper or other to protect your work surface

The process to preserve kids artwork is simple.

Dust or clean your object first, test a small area for compatibility (no smearing or other problems), then apply a coat of Mod Podge.

I’ve learned (the hard way) the value of letting coats dry completely between applications, so I waited 24 hours before adding the second coat. You could wait a few hours, just make sure it’s dry depending on your climate.

The results are fantastic! These little creatures look better than ever, their childlike character intact, a bit sturdier from the glue, and a slightly glossy surface that I can maintain. Yes, you can preserve kids artwork with Mod Podge!

I now have heirlooms I can pass down to my children – actually on second thought, I might not be able to part with them

If you are looking for additional inspiration, I’d love for you to check out the following posts:

• How to Preserve Leaves with Mod Podge
• Kids Art Coasters Make Great Gifts
• Easy Arts and Crafts for Kids
• Easy Dresser Makeover with Children’s Art

The post How to Preserve Paper Art in a Few Steps with Mod Podge appeared first on Mod Podge Rocks.

I’m so excited to explore the magical world of Mod Podge with you today! If you’re just visiting the blog for the first time, welcome.

I’m sure you can tell just by the URL that I’m obsessed. If you’re wondering, “what is Mod Podge?” then you’ve come to the right place.

It’s basically the best craft supply of all time. At least, in my humble opinion! And I’m looking forward to telling you all the details.

Decoupage medium is used in the art of decoupage, or gluing paper/fabric to surfaces. In fact, the name comes from combining “modern decoupage.”

When was it invented?

Jan Wetstone invented the product over 55 years ago, in 1967. Before I ever picked up a bottle, I recognized the logo. I feel it’s really memorable:

You’ve probably seen it before if you’re here! Mod Podge is at every major craft chain, Dollar Tree, Target, Walmart, and a variety of other stores in the US and worldwide.

What is Mod Podge made of?

If you want to get down to the nitty gritty, Mod Podge is a polymer that contains polyvinyl acetate, defined as “a synthetic resin made by polymerizing vinyl acetate, used chiefly in paints and adhesives.”

If you open a bottle, it’s white, creamy, and of medium viscosity. Though I will say, some formulas are thicker than others. It’s easy to paint on and it dries clear.

What it is NOT is Elmer’s glue, and you shouldn’t make your own (find out why).

Is it the same as PVA glue?

No. It contains PVA, but it’s not the same. There are additional ingredients.

How to Use Mod Podge

Mod Podge works on paper, wood, fabric, glass, ceramic, terra cotta, tin . . . and even some plastics. Let’s dig in to how decoupage will work on various surfaces, so you can get an idea of what you’ll be doing (plus sample projects!).

Using on Wood

I told you that most of the time I use decoupage medium to attach paper or fabric to wood, and that’s true. If you’re going to apply it to wood, It’s a four-step process:

1. Prepare the wood surface. This can include painting with acrylic paint – but the painting is optional.
2. Cut out your items to decoupage to the surface, whether they be fabric, paper, etc.
3. Paint Mod Podge on the surface. You can paint it on the back of the item (the fabric or paper) as well. Smooth down to the surface. Let dry 15 – 20 minutes.
4. Add a top coat of decoupage medium and let dry. Repeat as desired (I usually do about 2 – 3 coats).

It’s a relatively straightforward and simple process, though I do recommend practicing before you get started. I always recommend that crafters purchase a $1 wood plaque (or frame, whatever is cheap) from the craft store to begin.

Grab a single piece of scrapbook paper, newspaper, or fabric. Practice a bit before you get started. We have a great list of beginner craft projects here.

If you want to see some sample projects using wood, check out these ideas from the blog:

Using on Glass

You can absolutely decoupage on glass, and it’s a very cool effect! There are a few ways you can take your project. Generally speaking, you’ll do the same thing with glass that you did with wood, though there are some changes in step 3:

1. Prepare the glass surface by cleaning with mild soap and water. Dry. You can also use a multisurface paint or glass paint (optional).
2. Cut out the items to decoupage.
3. Paint Mod Podge on the back of the item and smooth down to the glass surface. Wipe away any medium that comes out from under the item. Let dry 15 – 20 minutes.
4. Apply a top coat over the item only. Wipe away any excess medium around the edges. Repeat as desired.

Tip: You can remove dried Podge from glass using an X-Acto knife or razor blade and some scraping power. However, I try to minimize clean up like this because it’s time consuming and a pain. So I attempt to be neat when decoupaging glass as much as possible!              

If you want to see some sample projects using glass, check out these ideas from the blog:

Using on Canvas

Besides wood, wall art is one of my favorite things to decoupage. The process is very similar to what I’ve outlined before, with one exception – you’re going to use a bit more medium:

1. No preparation is needed for a canvas, unless you are going to paint. Use acrylic paint for this step. Let dry.
2.  Cut out the items to decoupage.
3. Paint Modge Podge onto the canvas liberally AND the back of the item; smooth down on the surface. Wipe away any medium that comes out from under the item or sides of the canvas. Let dry 15 – 20 minutes.
4. Apply a top coat, and wipe away any excess medium that squeezes out around the edges. Let dry and repeat as desired.

TIP: Decoupage on canvas is relatively easy since canvas is so porous. However, I do find that I need to “slop on” a little bit more medium to get things to stick.

If you want to see some sample projects using canvas, check out these ideas from the blog:

Using on Fabric

It can be used to attach fabric to fabric or fabric to wood. Depending on what you are doing, you may be using this formula.

You’re going to follow the same steps under the glass section above, including being mindful of where the decoupage medium is placed (you WILL be able to see the outline of glue around a fabric patch, for example).

IMPORTANT TO NOTE: once you’ve painted any decoupage medium onto fabric, it’s on there. You may be able to wash it out – use our guide to removing Mod Podge.

If you are decoupaging fabric to fabric, definitely play with scraps before you get started. To see some sample projects using fabric, check out these ideas from the blog:

Are you ready to try it? Leave me your comments, questions, and thoughts below! And before you go for good – don’t forget to see the decoupage car. It’s epic!

The post What Is Mod Podge? The Game-Changing Glue Crafters Swear By appeared first on Mod Podge Rocks.

Glass painting is HOT! Not only is it fun, it’s easy for beginners. Painting glassware can be intimidating, so I’m going to show you how to do it in four easy steps. I’ll give you preparation tips, painting ideas (at the bottom), and curing + care instructions.

Let’s get started!

How to Paint on Glass

As you can probably guess since you are reading this post: YES, you can paint on glass. Here are the four steps you’ll go through to achieve project success:

1. Prepare the Surface
2. Tape off the Area or Pattern
3. Paint the Glass
4. Cure According to Instructions

If you’re painting the entire surface, you might not even need step 2, so this potentially could be a three step process! Before you begin, you’ll need to gather your supplies.

Supplies You’ll Need

Glassware is available in craft stores and discount stores in a wide variety of shapes and sizes (I love getting it from the Dollar Tree!). Obviously that’s the first thing you need to get – something to paint! You’ll also need:

• Rubbing alcohol or white vinegar
• Glass paint – I’ll discuss in the section below
• Paintbrushes – soft bristled
• Water bin
• Paint tray
• Foam daubers or spouncers (optional)
• Stencil tape (optional)
• Stylus (optional)

Everything on the list above is pretty straightforward, but I want to discuss the brushes and paint a little bit more so you know what you’re dealing with.

Types of Brushes

There are several types of brushes and tools that accomplish different purposes.

Soft Bristled Brushes

These are regular paint brushes, however the bristles are softer than normal brushes. The reason for the “soft bristles” is to reduce brush strokes when you paint.

Once you start painting on glass you’ll see that this particular surface tends to *really* show brush strokes. A softer brush can help with this.

If you can’t find anything that says “soft bristles”, read the package and see if it says the brushes work for glass. I’ll be honest; the more expensive brushes seem to work best and these are the ones I take great care of.

I use these brushes to apply a basecoat of Enamel paint, chalk paint, or add details (with smaller brushes).

Spouncers

Spouncers are basically a sponge at the end of a stick. They are great for applying paint in an even application across a surface. I tend to use these for translucent or frosted paints, like FolkArt Frosted Glass.

When you spounce glass paint on, it dries with a bit of texture (you’ll see what I mean if you use them). That’s why I like using spouncers with the thinner paints. They even out more than acrylics.

Daubers

Daublers resemble spouncers, but they are a more dense foam and not as long. I LOVE daubers for applying polka dots with relatively crisp ages. They are also great for small areas like wine glass stems.

Stylus

Great for adding small dots! Simply dip into a “fresh” puddle of paint and touch the surface. Reload for same-sized dots. Paint descending sized dots with one load; simply continue dotting until all paint has been removed.

NOTE: Be sure when painting dots that you carefully set your tool down straight and lift straight up. If lifted at an angle, painted dots will smear.

Try this: once your tool is loaded, touch the surface, carefully twist in a circular motion, then lift to remove. The extra twist will ensure a full even circle.

Types of Glass Paint

Enamel Paint

There is a specific type of acrylic paint formulated for glass painting and it will clearly say on the label. There should also be curing instructions.

There are several brands, but the one I typically use is FolkArt Enamels. It is available in craft stores and shop.plaidonline.com in many colors. When cured, it is top-shelf dishwasher safe.

Chalk Paint

I LOVE the finish of chalk paint! It’s a no-shine, smooth finish that adheres really well to glass.

Spray Paint

There are a variety of spray paints suitable for glass, and you can get them in transparent, stone, metallic, solid, and many other types of finishes.

Just make sure to read the can and spray in several light coats. You can typically paint on top with either chalk or enamel paint if you want to add to the design.

Paint Pens and Markers

There are plenty of paint pens and markers on the market; for example, Sharpie oil based. You’ll draw with a paint marker as you would with a regular marker, so there aren’t really any instructions here. You can also draw over other painted designs – just let the paint dry first.

Food Coloring

A final way to color glass – food coloring and Mod Podge. However, those aren’t as permanent as the other types of paint above. Learn how to Mod Podge on glass here.

Now that you’ve selected your supplies, it’s time to go through the steps of painting on glass! You’re going to start with surface preparation and go from there. Here’s how you do it.

Surface Preparation

This step is crucial if you want the paint to stick. You are removing oils from fingers – oils that repel paint. That is why you are cleaning the jars in this manner.

Thoroughly wash in warm, soapy water to remove dirt, dust, and grease film. Then rinse in warm water and let it dry.

Next, dampen a paper towel with rubbing alcohol or white vinegar and wipe the stemware to ensure it is clean of any remaining soap film. Set aside for 15 minutes to air dry.

Taping Off the Area or Pattern

If you aren’t painting the entire jar one solid color, you might want to use stencil tape to tape off an area (like a square or other shape). Other options are adhesive stencils or stencils cut with a Cricut machine.

In all these situations, you’ll want to smooth your tape or stencil down thoroughly on the glass surface.

Stripes: Painting stripes is easy and create interesting backgrounds. Paint freehand stripes using your flat brush. Or you may also use stencil tape to mask an area to be striped. Apply paint using a flat brush, dauber, or spouncer.

While wet, carefully remove tape. Caution: do NOT allow the paint to dry with tape in place; paint may lift when tape is removed later. Hint: if you need to clean an edge after removing the tape, scrape using your craft knife when paint is dry.

As far as patterns, you’ll want to tape those to the inside of the glass instead of transferring them like you would on wood.

Just place your pattern inside the glassware and tape in place. If a pattern is repeated around the glass, secure several patterns. Voila, you can now see the pattern through the glass!

Painting Your Design

The way you paint your design is often determined by your brush or tool, which I’ll go over below.

Typically you’ll start with a basecoat of Enamel or chalk paint on your glass.

Chalk paint tends to show the least amount of brush strokes in my opinion. You can see what chalk paint looks like on mason jars in my post “how to paint mason jars.” It provides a really smooth finish.

Here’s the process I go through:

1. Dip the end of the brush into your paint. Don’t overload the brush – keep it on the bottom 1/3 to 1/2.
2. Start brushing on the glass. Expect to do a thin layer for your first layer. Enamel and multisurface paint will look thin when applied, but you’re going to build up layers.
3. Don’t keep brushing over the same areas when wet. You’ll end up removing what you just painted.
4. Paint in layers, letting dry between layers. It may take 3 – 4 coats to cover the glass.
5. Add details with smaller brushes, a stylus, or daubers. You can layer the paint but it must be dry before you do so.

Painting on glass is very similar to painting on wood, but I find that it shows more brush strokes. There is nothing that can be done to remove the brush strokes, however if you continue to layer the paint thinly, that will help reduce them. I also find they reduce as the glass cures, especially in the oven.

A spouncer can be used too! This helps with brush strokes (there aren’t any!). However, it does provide a different look on the glass, so I suggest giving it a try and see what look you like best.

Remember – quality of brushes matters. I find that higher quality brushes give higher quality results.

Other Tips

1. Remove any stencil or painting tape from your glass before paint dries.
2. Experiment with the tools. For example, you can use daubers or small spouncers to paint wine stems, sometimes more easily than a brush.

Once you’re done painting, you’re ready to cure your project!

Curing Glass Paint

ALWAYS read the bottle to get the instructions for your specific paint. Having said that, here are some general guidelines:

Drying Times: Glassware should be thoroughly dry before handling, at least 24 hours.

Curing Instructions: FolkArt Enamels should be cured prior to using; there are two recommended methods:

• Air Dry Method: Air dry the project for 21 days before using.
• Bake Method: Place your painted glassware in a cool oven. Set the oven temperature to 350ºF and bake for 30 minutes. Note: Glass must heat gradually with the oven to avoid breakage. After 30 minutes, turn the oven off; let the glass cool completely in the oven. Set aside for 72 hours.

Care Instructions: Once your painted stemware has been cured, it can be hand washed in mild soap and water or dishwasher cleaned on the top shelf.

NOTE ABOUT CHALK PAINT: it is not washable on glass and there are no curing instructions. Just don’t wash it – it’s used for decorative purposes only.

Troubleshooting

What if my paint doesn’t stick?

Make sure you have cleaned the glass with rubbing alcohol and that you are using the right kind of paint.

You can always spray a clear layer of acrylic spray sealer down on the surface before painting. Some kinds of glass are stubborn and this spray helps. Otherwise, get a new piece of glassware and call it a day.

How do I remove paint from glass?

Before it has cured, you can remove it by washing it off in the sink. If it has dried securely to the glass, use a razor blade, craft knife, or other type of scraper to remove it. This is also how you will remove excess paint before you cure your glassware.

Let me know if you have any questions in the comments! Don’t forget to check out the video before you leave.

The post Painting Glass 101: Your Complete Guide appeared first on Mod Podge Rocks.

When fall comes around, I’m ready to go outside and start harvesting natural materials for craft projects. One of my favorite things to find are those big, fat acorns that come from majestic oak trees. In fact, one year I painted them (in my article how to paint acorns for fall).

But what I didn’t realize is that you have to dry them or there will be beasties – i.e. weevil larvae – that will crawl out of them. I’m going to show you how to dry acorns for craft projects so that you never have to be grossed out by acorn beasties again.

What I didn’t know – the reason that the acorns you collect on the ground are the worm-y ones is because the squirrels leave them behind. Of course they do.

Squirrels are smart and can figure out to how to eat from the most complicated bird feeder. So they’re going to leave the nasty worm nuts behind.

The good news is the weevil larvae can’t hurt you. They don’t bite and they won’t ruin anything in your home if one gets out. However, you don’t want to have to deal with them, so you’ll want to dry them first before crafting with them. Learn how to dry acorns for acorn crafts below!

How to Preserve Acorns

Gather These Supplies

• Acorns
• Oven
• Cookie sheet
• Bowl of water or colander
• Mild soap (like dish soap)

Wash Them Off

After harvesting your acorns, put them in a bowl of water to soak or a colander and rinse them. Add a little bit of dishwashing liquid.

You might want to use an old toothbrush to scrub off any debris, if you have one. Otherwise soaking them in a bowl will remove most of the dirt.

Let Dry

Spread them on a towel to dry for at least an hour. If any of the nuts look gross after washing and drying, throw them away.

You might see some acorns with small holes. This is a sign that something has gotten into the nut, but drying the acorns will kill them so don’t worry!

Bake the Acorns

Preheat your oven to the lowest setting F or C – mine is 200ºF so that’s what I did. Lay the acorns in a single layer on a cookie sheet. You’ll want to use a cookie sheet with a lip so none of the nuts roll off.

Place the acorns in the oven on the cookie sheet and leave the door cracked slightly so that moisture can escape.

Check Every 30 Minutes

Check on the acorns every 30 minutes and roll them around a bit. If you see any acorns starting to brown too much, turn the oven off and leave the acorns in there. They will still “cook.”

You’ll want to leave the acorns in the oven for about 1.5 – 2 hours.

Remove and Cool

Remove the nuts from the oven and let cool. Throw away any that burned. Now you know how to dry acorns and you can use them in all of your craft projects!

Preserve if Desired

Now if you want to preserve the acorns, you can take an extra step. However, you don’t *have* to do this as they will last a long time just being dried out.

However, if you want to make sure they last for years and years and never fall apart, I recommend giving them a quick spray with a clear acrylic sealer. Blast them, let dry, turn them over, and repeat.

That’s about all you need to do! They are ready to display “as is,” or you can use them in any fall projects.

Do you have any questions, thoughts, tips or tricks? Leave me a comment!

The post How to Dry Acorns for Crafts and Decor appeared first on Mod Podge Rocks.

As the vibrant colors of fall begin to paint the landscape, there’s nothing quite like capturing that beauty by preserving autumn leaves.

Whether you’re looking to use them in crafts, home decor, or simply want to hold onto a piece of the season, finding the best method to maintain their rich hues can be a challenge.

I decided to put four popular leaf preservation techniques to the test: Mod Podge, silica gel, microwave pressing, and vegetable glycerin oil. The goal? To determine which method works best to keep those beautiful colors lasting longer.

And as far as I’m concerned, there was a clear winner (hint: it’s the last method in this post).

In this post, I’ll share the results of my experiment, so you can choose the most effective way to preserve your fall leaves and keep the essence of autumn alive all year ’round.

Methods for Preserving Fall Foliage

A little research made it easy to find out what people are trying, and I wanted in on the action. As said, the goal of my experiment was to see which preserved the colors the best.

For all four methods below, you’ll need to make the leaves are dry before preservation. I used paper towels and pressed them gently.

You should also preserve leaves (and flowers) shortly after you pick them. Foliage can start to lose color quickly, so you’ll want to capture it before it fades.

Now let’s get into the methods.

Mod Podge

The first method tried was Mod Podge. Of course I had to start there, because that is a question I get asked quite often during the fall – can Mod Podge preserve leaves?

For this method, all I did was paint Mod Podge on the leaves and allow them to dry. Then I let the leaves age naturally.

This is no surprise to me. The reason is because Mod Podge is an acrylic, waterbased product. It can’t stop the chemical process of chlorophyll from breaking down inside the leaf.

Glycerin Bath

The second method I tried was glycerin, which involves putting leaves into a mixture of two parts water to one part vegetable glycerin. The mixture started to look questionable very quickly as color was released from the leaves.

Here are the resulting leaves after several days in the bath:

Silica Gel

Silica gel is commonly used to dry flowers, so of course I had to see how it worked on leaves! The process is simply. You’re going to find a container to house the gel (which is like sand) and sandwich the leaves down in it for several days.

Once the time is up, you’re going to gently remove the leaves from the silica gel.

The problem with this method is the fragility of the leaves. When pulling them out of the silica gel, they were fragile. Some of the tips and ends broke off of the more intricate leaves (as you can see in the photo).

I recommend this method – however, if you’re going to use it, keep in mind the fragility of the leaves when placing them in (and removing) the gel.

Microwave Press

I saved the best for last! I’ll just come out and say it – the microwave press is my favorite method for preserving the color in leaves. I use it for flowers, too.

The method is simple – you’ll purchase a microwave press like this one and sandwich the leaves between the layers. You heat the leaves in 25 – 30 second bursts, rather than one long session.

Check the leaves between heating. After a few minutes, the leaves will be completely dry. And the press can hold several layers at once!

The leaves come out beautifully and they *still* haven’t changed color months after the test:

PROCESS TIME: Minutes, or one hour tops.

RESULT: This was my favorite method! As you can see, the leaves retained their color fabulously. While they are a little bit fragile, it’s not as much as the silica gel. They are perfect for using in crafts.

And because Mod Podge is great for keeping the leaves from crumbling, you can paint a layer over the front and back to keep them together.

Have you ever dried leaves? What is your favorite method? This post is part of our Dollar Tree fall crafts. If you like seasonal projects, here are a few other autumn ideas with Mod Podge you might like to try:

• Painted Acorns
• Mod Podge Pumpkins
• How to Dry Acorns
• DIY Leaf Bowl
• Pumpkin Seed Canvas

The post Preserving Fall Leaves: This Method Works Best for Lasting Color appeared first on Mod Podge Rocks.

I’ve made it very clear how much I love craft paint. I’m kind of obsessed with it! I use craft paint by itself but also in many of my Mod Podge crafts. I wrote on article on how to use acrylic paint and it’s always been a popular post.

When a new craft paint comes out, I feel obligated not only to use it, but to write about it if I fall in love. My friends, I have fallen in love with Color Shift!

If you’ve never heard of this paint, you’re in for a treat. This paint has pigments that create a metallic luster with colors that shimmer in changing light!

Color shift paint is hard to describe, for sure. Start by visualizing a metallic paint. The “shift” happens when you paint a dimensional object, and then turn it around in your hand under light.

The colors that come out depends on the angle. It shimmers and shines, like mermaid scales. It’s awesome and one of favorite craft paints ever. I’m really excited and want to share some projects so that you can see how to use this amazing paint.

But before that, I want to teach you how to use this paint and give you tips/tricks. So that when you use it, you are fully prepared and get the best results!

How to Use Color Shift Paint

The first thing to know about this paint is that it’s waterbased, non-toxic, and made in the USA. It’s easy to brush on, and you use it straight from the bottle without diluting.

On what surfaces can I use color shift paint?

This paint can be applied to most craft surfaces such as wood, terra cotta, stretched canvas, rigid plastic, papier mache, metal, bisque ware or unglazed ceramics, glass and ceramics. It’s an indoor and outdoor paint.

The color shifting properties of the paint appear best when painted onto a smooth, 3-dimensional surface that will reflect light.

How should I prepare surfaces before painting?

The great thing about these paints is that they don’t require a lot of surface prep. The main concern is to have the surface thoroughly cleaned and dry prior to painting. Here’s how you should prepare individual surfaces:

Tip: I *highly* recommend painting a basecoat of a matching acrylic paint color (non metallic) down first. You’ll end up having to use less coats of color shift, and it will “pop” off the surface better.

Canvas – No prep required.

Fabric – It is NOT recommended to use Color Shift paint on fabric; fabric will only absorb the paint and (depending upon the weave of the fabric) may be too textured. You can try it at your own risk to see if you mind.

Glass and Ceramics – Wash surface well in warm soapy water, rinse and allow to dry thoroughly. Wipe over surface with rubbing alcohol to remove remaining soap or grease residue. (learn how to paint glass here).

Metal and Tin – Metal that has been enameled or sealed should be washed in warm soapy water, then wiped with rubbing alcohol to remove remaining grease or soap residue.

Paper and Papier Mache – No prep required.

Rigid Plastic – Wash the surface well in warm soapy water, rinse and thoroughly dry. Wipe over surface with rubbing alcohol prior to painting on rigid plastic to will remove remaining grease or soap residue.

Terra Cotta – If it’s used, you should clean with warm soap water before painting. You’ll also want to seal the inside if you plan on using live plants and dirt inside. Get my pot decoration guide for more tips.

Wood – If desired, sand smooth any rough areas prior to painting. Remove any dust.

Can it be used outdoors?

Yes. By the nature of the acrylic polymers used within, it is weather resistant.

When cured to the surface, it is self sealing, making it unnecessary to seal or topcoat, when properly cured (48 hours). Once cured to the project surface, it is water and fade resistant under normal conditions.

Can I use water to thin it?

No – you’ll mess with the properties of the paint and it won’t be iridescent or “shift”!

Can it be used with other paint products?

Don’t mix before application as you’ll compromise the color, finish, and ability to shift colors. However, you can use with other acrylic paint projects (such as over the top, or underneath), when dry.

How long does it take to cure?

This paint will dry to the touch very quickly, however, it will take approximately 48 hours before it is cured fully.

How should I clean up my brushes and tools?

Clean brushes and tools immediately after use, while wet, with soap and water. Like any other acrylic craft paint or Mod Podge, you don’t want this paint to dry in your brushes.

Are you ready for some projects?? I’m so excited to share! Here are 10 ways to use this paint below.

Color Shift Paint Projects

1. Sweet Message Rocks

Paint rocks with color shift paint, then hide them in the bushes for someone lucky to find! They will shine so brightly in the sun.

2. Candlestick Candy Holders

Katie used these colorblock candlesticks to create candy holders! These are so cute for the holidays. I love the way she splatter painted on the top, too.

3. DIY Fidget Spinner

This is made by drilling holes through small painted popsicle sticks and attaching them to a wood block with a nail. What happens when you spin it around? Well you’ll just have to find out by making one! All I have to say is that it looks really cool. Kids will love this project.

4. Rainbow Cubby

This shelf is such a perfect way to use all the shades of color shift paint! It’s hard to say which one is my favorite . . . because I really love them all.

5. Shimmer Easter Eggs

What I love about this Easter egg project is that the paint was used underneath Glitterific (another product by Plaid) for a unique effect. So you see glitter on the top and the shifting of the acrylic paint below.

6. Beaded Baby Mobile

The Pretty Life Girls used this paint on geometric beads and made a mobile! What’s fun about this project is that the beads spin around, showing off the awesome paint effects in the light.

7. Unicorn Vanity

You can use this paint on furniture, and it looks so cool! What kid wouldn’t love this in their bedroom? Heck – I might want unicorns in my craft room.

8. Mermaid Inspired Bracelet

You don’t have to use this paint in large areas – you can dot color shift paint on too! It looks awesome on this mermaid inspired bracelet. Three shades were used.

9. Glitter Notebook

This notebook is another example of using this paint with glitter on top. You need to try it so you can see how amazing it looks with and without!

10. Flower Pots

So far this is probably my favorite application of Color Shift. It looks awesome on clay pots, so my plan is to do a set for my windowsill. AND I could even leave them outside since it’s self sealing!

Now that you’ve learned all about this fantastic iridescent paint, here’s a quick video (and you can see all the colors in action!). Just press PLAY on the video in this post!

Let me know in the comments if you’d like to try this paint – and what your project idea is. Enjoy!

The post Color Shift Paint: The Ultimate User’s Guide (Plus Projects!) appeared first on Mod Podge Rocks.

I have quite the “prolific” craft room. Officially I suppose that means that my supplies are represented in large numbers, which is true. But it’s also my fancy way of saying – I’m a craft hoarder.

But the thing is, if you start crafting for a hobby . . . . it happens to the best of us. Because like any sport or activity, there are tools of the trade. And there are quite a few tools of the trade in crafting.

In fact there are so many tools of the trade that it’s easy to lose track of what you have. I try to regularly engage in some serious craft room organization on a regular basis, but sometimes it just ends up in closing the door to the room.

As Scarlett O’Hara stated in all her wisdom, “tomorrow is another day.”

Anyway, as I was sorting through my cabinets the other day I had an interesting thought. I have a lot of supplies to make things with . . . but what are the essentials? What is that list that I would recommend to a newbie?

I decided it was time to put together a list of supplies for new crafters. If you’re just getting started, this is THE LIST of stuff you’ll want to start assembling. With the reasons listed for why you need those items.

And I didn’t come up with it myself.

I sourced this information from my Facebook page as well as my Facebook group – a total of a heck-of-a-lot of crafters were asked their essentials. So let me tell you . . . you can trust this list! I also endorse their picks from my own experience.

If you combine these with either our easy crafts for adults or these Mod Podge crafts for beginners, you’re going to be sitting pretty. Most of the projects require several of these items.

Places to Buy These Craft Supplies

Keep in mind that for most craft projects, you still need to buy some additional goodies. But my friends . . . there are options. Because I don’t know about you, but keeping prices down is the name of the game for me. So I can um . . . buy more craft stuff?

Big Box Retailers

Both Target and Walmart have craft sections. Research what you want online to get an idea of what most retailers are selling the craft materials for, and have that ready during your trip so you can decide whether to purchase their or not.

Retail Craft Stores

I’m sure you’re aware of Hobby Lobby, Michaels, JoAnn Stores. The secret here is waiting for sales (they always have them) and using the apps and membership programs.

USE your coupons and pay attention for the big sales (like everything’s 20% off). Sign up for the emails. You can save big just by paying a little attention.

Other Places to Look

These are some great places to take your list and see what you can save on – it’s worth poking around. Especially when it comes to surfaces. Trust me on this!

Are you ready for the list? Time to dig into the necessities . . . and here they are. Let me know which ones you already have in the comments – which ones you want – and if I’ve missed any of your personal essentials!

PS – don’t forget to check out our craft supplies for kids!

1

Fiskars

Fiskars Scissors

Everyone was in resounding agreement that scissors are by far the most important craft supply you need to have on hand. The recommendation was to have a pair for paper (like the standard orange handled) and a pair for fabric.

I personally swear by Fiskars Titanium scissors. I'm about to sound like an "As Seen on TV" ad, but I'm serious – these are the best scissors I've ever used. I've had my current pair for years. Nothing gets stuck to them and they are still sharp!

Get Them

2

Fiskars

Detail Scissors

Continuing the scissors theme – larger scissors can cut out larger items, but when you're getting down to the nitty gritty, they struggle in small areas. If you're cutting out items with more detail, you'll be glad you have these in your craft supplies.

Get Them

3

I Love to Create

Aleene’s Original Tacky Glue

Want to glue embellishments to a picture frame? Or maybe you want to glue ribbon around the top of the vase you just decorated! These are just two of the many, many uses for craft glue.

My personal favorite is Aleene's. I store it upside on my desk in a cup so that the glue is always ready to roll when I need it. And note: I really like the Quick Dry formula, because I'm impatient.

Get Them

4

Eclectic Products

E-6000

Everyone agreed that while you definitely need craft glue as part of your stash, E-6000 needs to be on your list of craft items as well. Craft glue is water-soluble to a certain extent.

E-6000 is not. And it is very strong. For example, you can glue clear beads on glass with E-6000. Craft glue isn't strong enough for that.

Why not use E-6000 on everything? Because it is more expensive (because it's stronger) and it has an odor. I only use it when craft glue won't do the job.

That doesn't mean I don't like E-6000, because I do. But no need to over do it. Use the right tool for the right job!

Get Them

5

Surebonder

Surebonder Glue Gun and Glue Sticks

Yes, there are kind of a lot of adhesives in crafting! Hot glue is another one of them. Unlike liquid glue, it attaches things quickly and doesn't need dry time. I like to attach felt to things with hot glue too – it doesn't bleed through.

My favorite glue guns are Surebonder and I have the cordless. It seems to have a smaller nozzle so it doesn't string as much. Finger covers are also great to use with a glue gun to prevent finger burns.

Get Them

6

Plaid Enterprises

Mod Podge

I know it might seem biased but crafters said Mod Podge is a necessity, even without my input! Learn what Mod Podge is here. You can use it for the craft of decoupage, which is great for beginners.

Use the Mod Podge formula guide to determine which one you need, as there are several different kinds.

Get Them

7

Plaid Enterprises

Craft Paint

Craft paint is one of my favorite things to purchase because who doesn't love COLOR! I'd say get some basic colors to begin with . . the colors of the rainbow . . . to add to your craft supplies.

Then you can expand from there as needed depending on projects. You'll paint everything from glass to paper mache to wood with craft paint!

Note that crafters also mentioned chalk paint as a favorite as well. It's got a ultra matte finish and works (no prep) on a variety of surfaces.

Get Them

8

Jerry Q Art

Paint Brush Set

Once you get your paint and Mod Podge, you're going to need some brushes. Some people use foam brushes; I personally prefer soft bristled brushes.

Be sure to keep your brushes clean with mild soap and water or brush cleaner. And while you're at it, you can get a water bin if you want.

Get Them

9

Plaid Enterprises

Foam Spouncers

These are also called foam pouncers, and they are an important craft supply! They are great for making polka dots, as well as for stippling paint onto jars (giving it a little bit of texture).

I also swear by these for glass paint. You'll find them in my painting on glass guide.

Get Them

10

Amazon.com

Household Tool Set

I'm always using tools for craft projects. Sometimes you need to unscrew things, or screw things in, or hit things. I know – technical speak. A tool set has everything you need like wire cutters, and pliers, and sometimes a measuring tape!

Get Them

11

Revlon

Hair Dryer

You might be wondering what a beauty tool is doing on this list – but you wouldn't believe how many crafters said a hair dryer is an essential!

You can dry paint more quickly – as well as Mod Podge. You can heat things up to make them more pliable (clay). Get a cheapie one for the craft room. You can also use a heat gun.

Get Them

12

Amazon.com

Colored Cardstock or Construction Paper

You can decoupage with it, fold it to make cards, punch it out – paper is definitely a craft supply mentioned over and over again. Some people say cardstock, some say construction paper, and several said both.

The nice thing is that both Amazon and retail stores have variety packs which can get you started out with your paper collection quite nicely.

Get Them

13

Fiskars

Paper Cutter

You bought your cardstock, now you need something to cut it quickly! Yes – you can use scissors. But paper cutters are nice for cutting straight lines (and precisely).

When you have a bunch of printables or printed photos to cut out, a paper cutter is your best friend. Keep those blades sharp!

Get Them

14

Anezus

Craft Knife and Mat

Just like glues, there are a variety of cutting tools in the crafting world. Besides what I've already shown you, you're going to need an X-Acto knife and mat for cutting on.

It's amazing what you'll cut with your knife – felt, details in paper, washi tape that overlaps an edge . . . there are so many things! You can also cut curves with a craft knife. Do this by moving the paper around the curve, while holding the knife in place.

Get Them

15

Fiskars

Clear Acrylic Ruler

A ruler is a no brainer for crafting, even with a tape measure. Because, you're going to need to draw some straight lines at some point. Or measure a flat surface.

I like the clear acrylic ruler because you can use it with your craft knife and mat. AND you can see what's under it, which helps with patterns.

Get Them

16

Amazon.com

Craft Tweezers

I don't know about you, but I have fumbly fingers. That's why I always have tweezers in my craft supplies! They're one of those craft items you'll find yourself using more than you think.

You can use them for beading and jewelry making, diamond painting, decoupaging with small items, scrapbooking, and more.

Get Them

17

Coquimbo

Basic Sewing Kit

You won't believe how often you'll use pins, thread, and needles in NON-sewing projects! Every crafter has a sewing kit in their stash, at least this is what they tell me.

Get Them

18

Amazon.com

Soft Tape Measure

A tape measure might come in your sewing kit, depending on which one you get. But, I always lose that one. You'll need a flexible tape measure for sewing projects as well as measuring round items.

Get Them

19

Amazon.com

Variety of Glitter

Every crafter loves glitter, even when they hate it. I use glitter during the holidays, and sometimes even during the year! Whether you sprinkle it on things or mix it into Mod Podge, you'll inevitably want a good selection of glitter in your crash stash.

Get Them

20

Sharpie

Sharpie Markers

They come in a variety of sizes and styles, Sharpie markers do. I'm a big fan of their regular markers for drawing and coloring, and the paint markers (especially the oil based ones) are super awesome.

I have tried the generic markers and paint markers, and I find Sharpie to be superior. I don't skimp because it has cost me in the long run a few times!

Get Them

21

Ryobi

Hand Sander

There are a lot of good reasons to use a sander, even on unfinished wood. Frequently the inexpensive wood from craft stores can be a little rough and needs help.

Also if you're planning on refinishing items from the thrift store or Goodwill, which a lot of crafters do, this makes life so much easier.

Get Them

22

Strathmoor

Tracing Paper

I can't believe so many crafters said they use tracing paper – I thought it was just me!

It can be used to sketch, draw, trace, layer, and more. I tend to use it for patterns, or to trace an item so I can cut paper for decoupage. It really comes in handy!

Get Them

23

Supla

Ribbon Packs

I always think to myself that I don't need ribbon, and then I always need ribbon. Because when a craft project needs a little extra something, it's typically ribbon.

I use it for trimming things, whether it be for sewing or a craft. I also use it to hang ornaments, make hair bows . . . a little bit of everything. Ribbon always comes in handy!

Get Them

24

Scotch

Scotch Tape

It was no surprise to see Scotch tape on peoples' list of craft items! Tape is good for everything paper related, and for wrapping gifts of course. It's also good for taping patterns together. I use double stick tape all the time in cardmaking.

Get Them

25

Scotch

Painter’s Tape

Crafters use painter's tape for so many different things. Obviously painting is one of them (get my guide to painting straight lines). I also use it for keeping paper together temporarily (since it's removable).

Get Them

26

Amazon.com

Kraft Notebooks

This is a craft supply that I actually don't use! But enough people said it that i put kraft notebooks on here. They use them to decorate and of course, keep ideas and plans in. And patterns. And clippings.

I use scrap paper to jot down ideas, but I should probably use a notebook. This is a great idea.

Get Them

What are your essentials? Let me know in the comments! If you enjoyed this list, I think you’ll also love the following posts:

• 50 Decoupage Ideas You’ll HAVE to Try!
• Decoupage Supplies: Get My Essential List!
• Genius Crafting Tips (You’ll Use Again and Again!)

The post Must Have Craft Supplies the Pros Use appeared first on Mod Podge Rocks.

I’ve been decoupaging – also known as Mod Podging – for over 16 years. I’ve done hundreds of projects. If you follow my process below, you’re pretty much guaranteed good results. There is also a video in this post if you’d like to see decoupage in action.

Do you want to be a perfect Mod Podger? Who doesn’t want to learn how decoupage and be great at it, I ask! I’ve been decoupaging for many years, and I’ve got a tried-and-true method that I’m very excited to share with you.

You will be a Mod Podge expert in no time.

Here are the seven steps I always take to get a perfect project, every time. Decoupage is an amazingly easy craft for adults (and kids) once you get the hang of it! Sure, you’re going to need to practice, but that’s to be expected with any new hobby. Learn to Mod Podge below.

How to Decoupage, with Mod Podge

Before you start, you might be wondering – what is decoupage? I use the word in two ways. I use it as a noun with the Wikipedia definition: “the art of decorating an object by gluing colored paper cutouts onto it in combination with special paint effects, gold leaf and so on.”

Mod Podge is a glue that you can decoupage with!

And I also use “decoupage” as a verb . . . such as, “to decoupage paper onto a surface.” With Mod Podge, of course! And with that, let’s jump into the process of decoupage.

Step One: Prepare Your Surface

Before you get started, you want to make sure your project surface is ready. Almost anything can be used to create a decoupage project. Suitable surfaces include wood, papier mache, terra cotta, tin, cardboard, and glass.

Clean your surface if necessary. Wood can be sanded with a light grit sandpaper. Make sure any dust is wiped away.

Only SOME plastics are okay for decoupage – I recommend testing a small area before completing your entire project to make sure that the Mod Podge will adhere.

Step Two: Prepare Items to be Decoupaged

Measure and trace items to be decoupaged, such as fabric or paper. You’ll be much happier if you cut everything to fit before Mod Podging instead of after.

Fabric – Wash and dry the fabric (do not use fabric softener). Iron (if necessary) and then lay out on a covered work surface. Wax paper is preferable for covering your table. Using a brush, paint a light coat of Fabric Mod Podge onto your fabric. Allow to dry. This will allow you to cut the fabric like paper without frayed edges.

Paper – Most items, especially thicker papers and scrapbook papers, are ready to use with Mod Podge as is. If you are working with inkjet printouts, read this post.

Are you working with tissue paper or napkins? You’ll probably want to use another method specifically for thinner materials – try the iron on method.

Step Three: Cut Items to Fit Your Surface

Cut out your paper, fabric, or whatever it is that you are planning to decoupage. Experiment with design elements to determine the layout of your piece.

Add interest to your design by using large and small pieces, layering and overlapping elements and coordinating colors.

Step Four: Paint the Surface

Basecoat your surface with acrylic paint. Many items need to be basecoated before decoupaging if your surface is unfinished. I recommend FolkArt acrylic paints. Chalk paint also works well.

Let your surface dry completely before moving onto the next step.

Step Five: Adhere Each Item With Decoupage Medium and Smooth

If you aren’t sure what to pick, that’s totally understandable  – that’s why I’ve written this Mod Podge formula guide that you should visit. It explains everything.

Always start with the underlying design elements and work your way upward (when layering). Apply a medium layer of decoupage medium to the surface.

It’s better to add too much than too little. Too little Mod Podge and you will get wrinkles – and you can always wipe away excess.

Place your item(s) to decoupage on top of the Mod Podge and smooth, using your hands or a brayer.

Keep smoothing until all of the bubbles are gone. Then, AND THIS IS IMPORTANT, let your project dry for 15 – 20 minutes. Don’t put a top coat on right away.

Tip for working with large pieces: smooth from the center outward. Air bubbles can be removed with the brayer from the Mod Podge Tool Set.

Step Six: Add a Protective Coat to the Project

Apply a medium layer of Mod Podge to the top of the project. Allow to dry and then repeat. The number of coats you finish with is up to you, but I recommend at least two.

When you finish, if you experience any tackiness or just want to add durability, add a clear spray or brush-on sealer to the top. You can also use resin. We do that a lot with coasters, where you need heat protection.

EXTRA FINISHING TIP: For a very smooth finish, wet a piece of #400 grit sandpaper with water and sand lightly between coats. Wipe dry and polish with #0000 steel wool on the final coat.

Step Steven: Add Embellishments

Add any embellishments on top of the decoupaged surface with your favorite craft glue. Let dry completely. If you’re gluing to glass, I recommend a stronger glue like E-6000.

Once you’re done adding embellishments, your project is complete. And now you know how to decoupage. And how to Mod Podge. Let me know if you have questions in the comments!

For more information on how to decoupage and an FAQ, go here! And if you need over 200 decoupage projects to try, you can find my project gallery here.

The post How to Decoupage: Learn to Mod Podge Like an Expert appeared first on Mod Podge Rocks.

“Mod Podge Dimensional Magic vs resin – which one should I choose?” This is a question I get a lot, and it’s time to answer! They are VERY different products even though they get compared all the time. Oh, and in my opinion?

They’re both awesome products and ones I use regularly. This post is not to try to convince you why the Dimensional Magic is better . . . it’s to educate you about when it’s appropriate to use each.

Dimensional Magic or Resin?

Well – let’s start with the similarities. Both of them are used as finishing layers on projects to create thicker, glossier layers than normal decoupage mediums such as Mod Podge can provide.

If you had two projects next to each other, one featuring resin and the other with Dimensional Magic, I’m not sure that you could tell the difference. The mediums both look glassy and provide a hard finish that makes a tapping noise when you tap on it. They’re both very solid.

But – they also have a lot of differences.

When You Would Use Dimensional Magic

Dimensional Magic was originally – back in the day – developed for paper and jewelry crafts. Remember when scrapbooking was hot, hot, hot? This product was developed to make the clear, glossy effects you see on some stickers and other paper crafts. Here are some things that make it different from resin:

• it’s an acrylic, waterbased product
• it can be used right out of the bottle (no mixing)
• it’s non-toxic, meaning no materials in this product are toxic or injurious to humans (including children) or animals

If you want a glossy effect with a little dimension on something, you’ll simply pop open the bottle and squeeze this on, then let dry overnight to get that clear, glassy surface.

Now while It’s a hard surface – it can be dented if you try, AND it shouldn’t be left in water. It will start to break down. This is because it’s acrylic and that is what acrylic products do!

My primary use for Dimensional Magic is small areas: jewelry pendants, earrings, cards, etc. However, I have used it on items as large as trays (we’re talking like 9″ x 12″). It works well, but you’ll use several bottles of it. You may want to use resin on trays (we’ll get to that).

Just because Dimensional Magic is non-toxic, that doesn’t mean it’s food safe. It’s not. Do not put food items directly on top of this product when dry. You should also wash your hands if it gets on them. You don’t need to wear gloves or protective equipment while using DM (unless your skin is extra extra sensitive).

When You Would Use Resin

As far as I’m concerned, resin is used for larger projects or where heat and water resistance is important. Here are the main differences from Dimensional Magic:

• it’s an EXTREMELY durable product – more so than Dimensional Magic
• it’s toxic while mixing – contains hazardous components so you must wear gloves and protective equipment such as a mask or respirator if you are sensitive
• as I just mentioned, it’s a two part product that requires mixing and stirring

Plaid makes a brand of resin called Mod Podge Resin, that is a true resin and nothing like a decoupage medium. There are also many other two part resins widely available on the market.

The packages consist of a resin and a hardener that you will mix together, being sure (of course) to follow all safety precautions on the label.

When or where would I use resin? On countertops, tabletops, large scale art, to make jewelry (the beads/bracelets/earrings themselves), trays (that are larger or need to be heat/water resistant).

I think of resin in more of a DIY/home improvement or serious jewelry maker capacity, where Dimensional Magic is my go-to craft supply for a similar effect, but on a smaller scale.

Am I starting to make sense?

Oh, and in case you are wondering, you can embed items (confetti, glitter, buttons, etc) into BOTH Dimensional Magic and resin.

Resin can be used in a lot of the same places that Dimensional Magic can be used, but I wouldn’t mix it for smaller projects or paper crafts. For the effort I’m going to put in to mix, I only use resin when I need a REALLY tough solution. Which, sometimes the project requires!

When I’m considering Mod Podge Dimensional Magic vs resin for a project, here are the questions I would ask:

• How durable does my craft need to be?
• What is my surface – wood, paper, etc?
• How big is the area that I’m covering?
• Does my project need to be heat or water resistant? No Mod Podge is waterproof. However, resin is!

Let me know if you have questions about either one – or usage – in the comments!

The post Mod Podge Dimensional Magic vs Resin appeared first on Mod Podge Rocks.

I’ve been running this Mod Podge blog for over 15 years, and I get asked a few questions from newbies on a regular basis. And keep in mind, I love the questions. Everyone has to start somewhere with a new craft!

The first question I get asked is, what is Mod Podge? The second question comes shortly after the first, what is decoupage? And honestly, I love talking about it. I’ve been a crafter my entire life, and decoupage is definitely one of my favorite activities.

It’s an easy craft for adults, as well as for children. The mediums are non-toxic, inexpensive, and simple to use. Does it take practice? Yes. Can you do it? Absolutely! But first you need to learn all about it. Read this post before you begin your first project.

What is Decoupage?

I’ll admit that decoupage seems like a more complicated concept than it really is, partially because the word sounds fancy. “Decoupage” actually comes from the French word “decouper,” which means to cut out or cut from something else.

This word has its origins in East Siberia, where nomadic tribes used cut-out felt to decorate tombs. The practice spread to China around the 12th century, where paper cutouts were used to decorate lanterns, windows, and other objects.

By the 17th century, decoupage had become popular in Europe, particularly in France and Italy. It evolved into a sophisticated art form known as “the art of the poor” due to its affordability compared to traditional painting.

If you are a “decoupager,” that means that you engage in the artistic pursuit of gluing items to a surface. Which – although it might sound like something kids do in kindergarten based on previous experience – is absolutely NOT THAT AT ALL.

Decoupage is an Art Form

Decoupage truly is an art form. Sure, you can make it more basic if you like (and I do), but many a fine artist has used a decoupage medium to create a unique piece that could be considered artistic.

Projects are enhanced not only with papers and fabric, but with painting effects, gold leaf, ink, embellishments, and even other mediums.

I’m constantly amazed at what people are doing with Mod Podge in my Facebook group, and generally impressed with the level of talent. It’s not just a craft.

If you want to see what people are doing, check out these 75+ decoupage ideas to get inspired before you begin.

The Basics of Decoupage

If you want to engage in the art of decoupage, it’s very easy to get begin. You’ll need three things: 1) a base surface and something to attach to it, 2) a decoupage medium, and 3) tools.

Choosing a Base

You’ll start by selecting a base. Here are common surfaces that you would start with:

• Wood
• Tin
• Glass
• Ceramic
• Metal
• Fabric (including clothing and shoes)
• Terra Cotta

Once you decide on a surface, you’ll pick something to adhere to the surface. Here are a few ideas. This isn’t everything, but these are the most common:

• Scrapbook Paper
• Fabric
• Tissue Paper
• Napkins
• Stickers
• Wrapping Paper

Picking a Decoupage Medium

After you decide on your project you’ll choose your medium to bring it all together. Many believe that a decoupage medium is simply school glue or a vinegar/water/corn starch, but that is not the case (learn more here).

As you can imagine, my decoupage medium of choice is Mod Podge.

It’s a glue, sealer, and finish all in one. Mod Podge has ingredients and properties that a regular school/craft glue doesn’t have, and that is why Mod Podge projects that were created 40+ years ago are still around.

I’ve seen projects made by the original inventor of Mod Podge, Jan Wetstone, with my own eyes – and they are in perfect condition. That is what a good decoupage medium does for you!

If you are wondering which Mod Podge to use (there are quite a few), I’ve written a formula guide to help you select the appropriate type.

Tools You’ll Need

Definitely check out my list of decoupage supplies. You’re going to want to have the following at minimum:

Brushes – I’ve spent enough time with bad brushes in my life that I’m now an advocate of good brushes. Invest in some good quality brushes like these or these and then take care of them.

Silicone Mat – my first mat was a gift to try. Then I bought four more. I’m not even kidding! It’s a completely non-stick surface that can be washed/reused and will protect your table top.

Brayer and Squeegee – I use my brayer and squeegee all the time. Like daily. Smoothing paper with my little sausages doesn’t work as well as putting even pressure on a brayer . . . and the squeegee gets into corners.

Scissors – I cut a LOT of paper and fabric, as you can imagine. I like having a nice pair of Fiskars scissors. I’ve used this brand since I was little so I’m partial to it. I have one pair for fabric and one pair for paper.

My supplies post has the rest of the items I use, but these are my essential tools.

The Basic Steps

Decoupaging isn’t hard, but it does take practice. What I LOVE about it is that you won’t need to make a huge investment to get started, and you don’t have to be an expert crafter to try it.

I’ll never forget when I started knitting at 15 years old; there was a huge learning curve. This is nothing like that!

Before trying it, you should know the basic steps of decoupage. You’ll want to read the post for more info, but here are the seven:

1. Prepare the Surface – sand or clean the item you’re going to decoupage
2. Prepare the Items to Be Decoupaged – cut your fabric, paper, etc.
3. Cut the Items to Fit the Surface
4. Paint the Surface
5. Decoupage the Elements with Mod Podge and Smooth
6. Add a Protective Coat to the Project
7. Add Embellishments

If you can master these steps – and I have no doubt you can – you’ll will have mastered decoupage. You’re going to love this process!

Your First Project

My #1 piece of advice when starting just about anything, but particularly this new hobby, is to dive in. Start with something easy (I have 20 Mod Podge crafts for beginners here) and expect to fail a few times. You WILL learn it in the long run. I promise.

Go to the dollar store to purchase surfaces or buy a few $1 plaques at the craft store, and practice, practice, practice!

My first project was a tray loaded with bubbles and wrinkles and ended up in the garbage. Before long, I was decoupaging with ease, and now there’s nothing I can’t do! I’m an expert. And you will be too.

Are you ready to get started? Let me know what your first project is and how it went in the comments, or share with my Facebook group here. Happy decoupaging!

The post What is Decoupage? Learn from an Expert! appeared first on Mod Podge Rocks.